After have see a "birching" and read the "birching " report on the Mistress Switch's blog and mistress Cassie's blog ,we would like to "experiment" birching with my Mistress.
If some participants of the forum have some experience in "birching", we will be happy to have informations.
In first, what is the best "wood" for the birch and the best size?
Sorry for my poor english....

Here you go

http://www.informedconsent.co.uk/dictionary/Birching/

Enjoy

There are many types of birch rod from the Eton mop-head type to some extremely nasty prison birches. I make Manx-style rods in various weights. Hazel was the traditional material for the Manx birch but willow is a good substitute. Typically I use 4 sticks of medium thicknesses (about 1/4" at the business end) bound together tightly for the top third of the length. The juvenile birch was 42" long, the adult 48" though in practice the 42" rod is more than adequate to get a good swing and deliver a punishing stroke with.

Many thanks for the informations.The birching will be our next "experience"!

The multi-rod type of birch can be severe,so I'd start with the more traditional rods,as used in schools and by governesses. They're less likely to cause injury,but the effect is cumulative,and they build up a sting which is hard for some to cope with. I've experienced it a couple of times,and it's well worth experimenting with. Look for a book called "The Wand of Venus,"published by the AKS Society. There's a chapter on making birch rods.

It really depends on what sort of level and experience you are looking for.

I have used very twiggy birches OTK which are fun ... they sting but aren't too severe.

"Medium" bundles of twigs can be used with the recipient bent over ... most effective used with an egg whisk motion (fast, repeated strokes).

Isle of Man birches are far more severe and comprise five rods ... suckers growing at the sides of trees are best.

Bear in mind that buds and joints may result in the skin being broken. This isn't serious, mainly just pin pricks which will heal in a day or so (sometimes within a few hours).

Most important thing of all ... enjoy

There is no getting away from the fact that a proper caning leaves stripes which last on the buttocks for quite a while. I suspect this is a problem for many subs who have to keep their needs and desires very private. A birching can be a very effective punishment and at the same time leave the buttocks with marks which disappear within a short space of time. I am referring to a birching with the traditional spray-type made from genuine birch twigs. I received a birching a year or two back of 18 strokes. At first the pain was very bearable, but as the birching progressed it became more and more of a torment and there is certainly a point at which this seemingly light-weight instrument becomes a very formidable one.
It is interesting to read how the rapid-birching of the three recipients caused them to become vocal when they had previous experience of caning taken in silence. Was this down to the rapidity of delivery or the birch itself. Would conventional delivery at ,say, every ten seconds have produced any vocal reaction. My own experience suggests that no birching with a conventional spray-type should be less than 30 strokes if it is to be a true punishment. After my birching my buttocks were flecked all over and very red, but in a few days all evidence was gone, which helped enormously with my personal situation.

When making a birch from genuine birch trees, don't worry too much about the shape to start with. Select for length and desired thickness, then bind the bundle to shape all the way down with string. Soak in water for a few days and then remove the bindings from the business end to the length you require. The birch will now have the correct profile for punishment administration.

Believe it should be salt water

I have nearly always used material from a birch tree. I have found that other trees are either no good at all (e.g. oak), or are more suitable for something like a cane (ash, rowan). Willow is quite similar to a birch, though you can't make a particularly severe instrument out of it, but it tends to break more easily than birch twigs. I have never been able to understand why they used hazel (for a few years) in the IOM; I have never found it satisfactory at all, and birch branches, if properly chosen, can punish as severely as any kind.

The best advice I can give for making a birch is "trial and error". There isn't really a substitute. However, here are a few points to bear in mind.

(1)If possible, gather your twigs when there are no leaves on the tree, and store them in water (preferably with a lot of salt in it). Removing zillions of leaves is a real chore, and the green tips of summer branches are soft and don't sting well. Twigs in water will kep for several months, though eventually they become too weak to be much use (they then break too easily in use).

(2)You can easily gather the sorts of very-branched twigs needed to make a spray sort of birch almost anywhere you can find birch trees. For straight rods, suitable for severe punishment, it is best to find an area of land that is being re-colonised by young(ish) trees. Young trees in this sort of situation produce a lot more of the straight branches. If places where there are only very old birch trees present, you may find it dificult to obtain any straight rods.

(3)To begin with, try making a spray type birch about 30 inches long. This is easy to control, and not excessively punitive. It will give you the general idea. Try it out on your calf (right calf - bare of course - if you are right handed) to see if it is anything like useable. Spray birches can be made up to about 48 inches long if they are going to be wielded by someone strong, but you may find that about 42 inches is a more practical upper limit. Very small and light spray birches, as small as 15 inches, can be surprisingly painful when applied to sensitive areas, such as the front of the thighs. Experiment to understand the difference between a birch with most of the twigs parallel and one with some side branches sticking out sideways. The side twigs in the latter will tend to punish well outside the area that you "aim at". Punishment with a spray type birch tends to be very painful, and will cut the skin if the birch is applied hard, but the damage is superficial.

(4)A birch with a small number (3 - 6) of rods that have been entirely stipped of side twigs is, if well made, a much more formidable instrument. Again, the ideal length is from 36 to 48 inches. Be careful with birches like these, and only apply them to the bottom, never the thighs. They can cut quite badly and in strong hands they can inflict really severe punishment. Note that you will need to restrain the person being punished if you use one of these birches hard.

(5)For both types of birch, adjust the twigs so that they seem "right", and then bind the handle with string. (You can do fancy bindings, e.g. with ribbon if you want.) Bind tightly at 3 or 4 points in the lower half of the birch. Again, trial and error are needed to do this right. If the handle is too rough to hold easily, which is occasionally the case, then put a layer of plastic tape over it.

Hope this helps.

The product of the velocity and the weight grants the greatness of the impact energy.
If the weight of the two devices is identical the injury caused by a cane is a bigger one, since bigger energy falls on a smaller area. However the majority of the nerve endings (receptor) are in the skin no in hypodermis, therefore the birch can hurt similar, than the cane. The cane has bigger energy the protracted recovery proves this.
The energy of the cane tears through the veins. The bleedings are initially red, they turn black afterwards soon and the blood will turns green. In fine the stripes disappear turning yellow after 2-3 weeks.
If the energy of the cane is too big the epidermis may break and the recovery may happen to a cicatrices. (Caning in Singapore!)